Among other things, yes…

There are hybrid inverters that support dark start (no grid) but yes, as you mentioned, they only do this when they have internally dropped the grid feed, to prevent such a back feed event.

If cyclone winds lift the panels and damage them, when the sun comes out it can increase the chances of a fire, or some such.

We had a category 2 cyclone approaching.

I only described it as inclement weather, so as not to become “exciting men’s club”…

I’ve used airtable for these sorts of “personal use” use cases (eg: home built rocketry flight log) and I was even able to use their iPhone / Android app to enter data.

I haven’t paid a cent for it yet as I’m well under their data caps.

Mk4s owner here and I’m super unhappy with the output of my factory assembled mk4s, due to a consistent first layer problem. The mk4s is related to the core 1 as far as I know as the “next gen”.

Prusa seems to be aware of the issue, but I feel they are still messing around greatly with any kind of actual solution to the problem, that actually led me to pulling the pin on any work purchases from Prusa at all.

I actually got sent a second factory assembled mk4s as a “make good”, and the new unit had the exact same problem, right out of the box…

If I had my time again, I wish I’d have gone the Voron in some kind of pre-packed kit form…

I like the little shuttle golf carts in Japanese airports: each cart plays a different tune as they drive along.

Nah… It’s easy… My previous mk3s+ had hundreds of awwsome PETG hours.

🙏🏻

Can I assume from your response that you have a mk4 or mk4s with this issue then?

Thanks…It’s a good point. I’ve updated the post photo, and I’ll add the worse failure mode elsewhere.

If you wanted to customise the starting gcode, I’m sure you could.

A typical output with PLA.with Zoffset = 0

I can get adequate results with Zoffset or LiveZ +0.04 with smooth sheet and PLA.

PETG is still variable results for same settings, z+0.01 is ok some of the time, others it is still terrible, and still sees filament build up, so if printing real things, it eventually blobs, and has a (bedArea - printArea) chance of then causing a collision.

+0.02 means no bed adhesion, and I can’t actually get a finished first layer.

This is one of the worse failure modes I have experienced for this issue. In this instance, the extreme amount of “squish” leads to extreme filament buildup on the nozzle, eventually causing colisions and removing chunks of the FL test.

Yes, but it occurs with both PLA and PETG.

My mk4s has just been replaced by Prusa. I’ve been chasing down first layer problems that manifested as load cell bed scan calibrations being haywire and filament blockage false positives.

After replacing just about every part of the nextruder 2 parts at a time, it started leading to the loveboard being the culprit, but after 6 weeks of troubleshooting, I asked for this to just be solved already, so they’ve JUST delivered the replacement.

So for me, it will be starting from scratch sith my mk4s, and figuring out what’s needed.

Given I print mostly PETG structural parts, I’m imagining that I’ll likely end up with 0.8mm as my default, and 0.6mm Obxidian as my abrasives nozzle. (I have been waiting to print PCCF for a while…)

I’ve noticed partial internal blockages when switching between PETG and PLA; ie’ when purging, the new filament curves as it’s coming out and I’ll get inconsistent extrusion till it shakes a small fragment of the old filament out in the next print.

While cleaning filament helps, I think that’s mostly as I can run it at 290°C to flush the remaining anything out… Plus it’s a much longer filament swap process to do cleaning filament in between…

While regular nozzles are super cheap, the nextruder nozzles from Prusa aren’t, especially the High Flow ones, and double especially the high flow Obxidian ones… The high flow nozzles also don’t let you cold pull them the same way, which sucks…

When I started with my first printer, the flashforge A3, someone suggested having separate nozzles for PLA from PETG… I used to do this and it prevented many problems I’d been having from ever starting. I’m beginning to think about doing the same with my Mk4S, and having a separate hotend/nozzle combo for PETG, PLA, and PCCF that I can just swap…

So then I’ll just need two new mk4 silicon socks in colours other than black so I can tell them apart…

The old guy that runs the mower shop I went to (had to drive 25kms) suggested it.

He said that all the Australian mowers with a “flat” deck already have this tilt built into it by default, so I had to manually do that on this one that let’s you set each wheel height independently.

Apparently, if I remember correctly, it helps with the length as the grass is cut earlier and is then above the blades sooner, rather than clogging it from underneath, and the rear of the cut path isn’t fighting grass as much and can create the vacuum to get the clippings into the bag.

As the model I chose has a “Blade Brake” that lets me stop the blades but keep the mower running, the only thing he suggested to me was not to start the blades mid path, and if I had to, to lift the front up as I engaged the blades, as they lift just a little as they come up to speed.

I forgot a few times, and I can see the few little areas where it cuts a little bit shorter than desired, so it was good advice.

I chose that shop as they had the models I wanted to compare in stock, and the guy who owned the place and his wife both seemed to know the models inside out on their short YouTube videos…

The other places I rang just told me they didn’t carry any stock, and that everything I needed was on the Honda webpage, so you can probably binder stand why I drove the extra distance.