The primary concern with fdm printed parts is bacteria growth in the gaps and cracks, which you cant really avoid. Some materials allow vapor smoothing, but the most popular candidates ABS and ASA are not food save, even if perfectly smooth.

For storing stuff that does not support bacteria growth (for sure salt, maybe tea bags and pepper) PETG is a good choice. Strong consistent layer adhesion enables water tight print. Its relatively chemically robust and will not chemically react with your food, and not leach out much if at all. It also means its mostly dishwasher safe, especially at low temperatures. You MUST have a properly tuned PETG profile to get a close to perfect surface with minimal defects. Burn of any stringing, otherwise it will end up as microplastic in your food.

For storing stuff that can spoil, the requirements are a lot higher, and the only option is coating with a food safe resin. You should research what is compatible with the printed plastic, and maybe avoid dishwasher or aggressive cleaners.

did … did vedal write this?

Nobody can buy land in china, it is only leased from the government for up to 70 years for residential usage (less for other purposes). Calling the tofu-dreg building on top of this “owning a home” is disingenuous at best and deceitful at worst. Why do people buy homes anyway instead of renting? Because all other options to invest are even worse and it is literally their only option.

I hope you don’t tolerate how mega corps “sell” you shit like digital media or IoT devices only to later change the terms of sale and steal it back from you, because you never really owned it. Don’t tolerate the same shit if a government does it to you.

Don’t dry filament in the oven. Simply put the filament spool on the print bed, set it to 60°C (PLA) or 70°C (PETG) and cover it with a cardboard box to trap the heat. Poke 3 holes in the box to lead damp air escape. Let it cook for 2-4h, then flip the spool and wait for another 2-4h. Store in air tight container with some silica gel to keep it dry.

None of the high end chips were made in Chinese fabs, and the device barely qualifies as a “laptop” besides the form factor. For some bizarre reason they used a USB5744 USB 3.2 5Gb/s hub chip, which tells me the following:

• Their CPU doesn’t even have multiple USB3 interfaces
• Their CPU doesn’t even have a single 10GB/s USB interface, which has been standard for may years
• They don’t really care about using local parts only, because they have alternative products like the GL3590

Unless We get better close up tear down photos, this devices primary purpose is propaganda

Good advertising on your side

Seen your meme during my lunch break doom scrolling on another site. Happy to see you are here on lemmy too!

Nice list. I chuckled at the fact that the bitcoin section does not recommend bitcoin :) We’re also here on lemmy, if you ever need help or just want to say hi

Fascinating. Thanks for taking the time to type it out

It’s worth it for the dry storage and automatic loading alone. Printing multiple objects one after another on the same bed and same print job, but with different materials is also a great feature and huge time saver for small parts. For actual multi-material prints the best use cases are imo writing into the first layer with a different color or using 2 different non-adhering materials for a thin layer between supports and the part. All of these things require very little filament changes and significantly improve the usage experience.

You are probably right, and I hate it.

Man this job posting is worse then all the garbage that companies put out. There will be very few people who tolerate KYC for non-paying volunteer internet janny job - and those who do should probably never be mods. Good luck tho, you’ll need it.

I’m not suggesting to pay one euro each month, I’m suggesting that you treat your lemmy instance as a 12 euro per year subscription. Compared to literally every other service it is basically free.

It’s not even expensive. A single euro monthly per user is more then enough to keep instances running

That’s because it is cruel.

Large numbers always seem terrifying, because our human minds are not made for them. The only way to comprehend them is to compare them to other things - in this case all the ways we humans cause damage to the environment directly. Our suburbs are ecological dead zones already. There is just not much space left between asphalt roads, driveways, and neatly trimmed lawn. It’s definitely the cat that goes outside for one hour a day who is the problem. Right next to plastic straws.

The real frustrating thing about all this that the companies that exploit our planet to core keep doing their shit (Noooo you cant work from home for your office job, you MUST commute to the city daily, because reasons!) while we fight with our neighbors about things that don’t really matter in the grand scheme of things.

Only commenting to give this post even more engagement, lol

You cant remove pocket and telemetry without recompiling. That’s why its not just a config file.

What filament do you want to use? Well tuned PLA might be able to bridge that far, no chance with PETG. What is your maximum acceptable sag?

It seems like the bridge lines do not attach to anything at the very end on the layer below. In Orca Slicer you need to enable “Ensure vertical thickness” to enforce that. I’d also rotate the bridge direction by 90°, this cuts down the length of the longest bridges by half. Bridge line spacing looks good to me. Make sure that the layer on top of the bridge is printed slowly and does not start in the middle, otherwise it will be pushed back and forth.

If it is just a mock-up, consider partially filling the interior or enabling “make overhangs printable”. Both will alter geometry, but so will excessive sagging.

A lot of people here commented “I do X and it works for me”, but I do not think that is good advice. While it might work fine for that person, there are too many variables that are ignored. Ambient humidity, filament type, printer model, slicer settings, model geometry/details - all of this has an impact on the final print quality.

A more controlled environment removes variables and therefor makes the print result more predictable. Drying filament and storing it properly takes a bit of effort, but it is easy step towards better results.

You don’t even need a dedicated dryer, just use your printers headbed, put 1-3 spools on it and a cardboard box with a few vent holes on top. Set the temperature according to the filament and let it run for 8 hours. Afterwards put the spools into a sealed container (4L cereal box works great), add some silica gel and your done. When it cools back down the relative humidity drops below 10% RH, which is so low that most hygrometers wont even measure it.

I’m casually printing PETG at 260°C, over 20mm³/s (about 300mm/s) and archive reproducible near perfect results with next to no stringing. With bare PLA drying may not matter, I’ve too little experience to give a definitive answer. If you have any composite filament (wood, carbon, sparkle, etc) you definitely should dry it anyway, because you do not know how much the filler changes the properties.

Oh and finally: I place new spools in containers with dry air (a tiny bit of silica gel in them) and measure the equalized humidity after a few days. Most spools were delivered with a humidity of 15-20% RH

But I don’t want to exchange is back to fiat, that’s the entire point.